The Bangkok Podcast | Expat Life In Thailand Via Expats From Canada & America

This week’s subject is the fascinating mythology of Thai ghosts, which, as anyone who has spent any time here knows, are a pretty big deal in Thai culture. In the west, ghosts and the supernatural are met with skepticism by most, so it’s easy to be dismissive. But Ed puts things in perspective by saying that Thailand’s ghost stories work better if you think of them like the mythology of Greek gods - huge, varied, and very creative. As someone who teaches a critical thinking class, Ed opines about urban vs rural belief stats, before both he and Greg get into some of the more interesting Thai ghosts (Ed’s favorite - creepy banana ghost. Greg’s favorite: floating head attached to intestines). No matter how you take it, Thai ghost mythology deserves heaps of appreciation for its sheer creativity and ties to Thai culture ancient and modern. If you want a crash course in understanding what makes Thailand different from other countries, start researching Thai ghosts! To get your started, here’s the trailer for a rea

Ed interviews Thanita ‘Ninar’ Wongprasert, a former UN employee and long time activist in the LGBTQI community in Thailand. Ninar talks about what it’s like to be gay in Thailand in general and points out that every individual’s experience is different. Ed and Ninar then discuss whether Thailand is liberal or conservative - and why such black & white classifications might be doing the pontificator and country a disservice. And speaking of disservice - given Thailand’s non-confrontational culture, it can sometimes be hard to determine whether gays are accepted or just tolerated by Thailand’s mai pen rai culture. Each person’s take will be different, of course, but Ninar points out that the government has traditionally been conservative and very reluctant to extend equal rights to the gay community. In the end, they discuss the somewhat ironic possibility that the current non-democratic military government may grant marriage rights to same sex couples before the expected elections early next year. Love is l

Greg and Ed try something new with the first in a series of episodes that look at interesting events in Bangkok’s history. For this one, they delve into one of Thailand’s most interesting personalities - Phlaek Phibunsongkram. Phlaek, or simply Phibun, was a military man who gained prominence as a member of the group that organized the 1932 coup that ended absolute monarchy in Thailand. Phibun was enamored with the fascist leaders of Europe and crafted a cult of personality around himself in Thailand. Along with his partner in crime Luang Wichitwathakan, or Wichit, Phibun led an ethno-nationalist movement designed to both define what it means to be ‘Thai’ and to modernize Thailand so that it could join the developing world. Consequently, Siam’s name was changed to ‘Thailand’ to make clear that a particular type of ancient Chinese immigrant was the true race of the country. But Phibun and Wichit also passed national ‘guidelines’ for using western silverware and even western clothing such as bowler hats for men

Greg interviews Kisnaphol “Keng” Wattanawanyoo, an expert in the informal aspects of urban life, and in the case of Bangkok, the plethora of mobile street vendors. While Bangkok is in a rush to modernize and clean up its streets, the mobile vendor subculture is alive and well - but for how long? Greg and Keng discuss where these folks come from, where they buy their merch, and explains the informal network they use to keep each other up to date, train new recruits, and mark their territory. Above all, they represent the best of the entrepreneurial nature of Thais, many of whom seem willing to travel long distances to set up their own businesses. However, Keng points out that the Thai government often takes a more negative view of the informal economy of Bangkok and see it as contributing to the chaos and disorder of the city - despite many (such as construction workers in the rapidly multiplying building projects) relying on them to get affordable, convenient food and supplies. Plus - Love, Loathe, or Leave -

Greg and Ed jump into the tricky issue of whether it is worth it for expats to gain permanent residency status in Thailand, also known as PR. It’s a good topic, because while Greg is still a stateless savage, Ed actually does have PR. So what is PR? Essentially, it’s a permanent visa that obviates the need to do border runs or 90 day reporting. But significantly, Thai PR does not include the right to work or the right to own property; plus, it can be expensive, at 195,000 baht for the those not married to a Thai, and 95,000 baht for those who are. Further, the application process is a bit of a nightmare and can take years to complete. So is it worth it? Greg and Ed debate this, while also discussing the positives, negatives, and unknowns of taking such a big step on the “I’m a legitimate farang living in Thailand” express train. Want to learn more? Here are a few links to get you started. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And

The podcast is very pleased to welcome back journalist Patrick Winn, who previously appeared on the show in its very early days - episode 11 of season 1, to be precise. Patrick recently authored a book called “Hello Shadowlands: Inside the Meth Fiefdoms, Rebel Hideouts, and Bomb-Scarred Party Towns of Southeast Asia” and the subject matter is as exciting as the title would suggest. Patrick discusses his time in Myanmar with gangs of militant Christians who kidnap drug addicts in an attempt to force them to go straight, his adventures in Vietnam with NVA veterans who ambush thugs stealing pet dogs for their meat, and violent gangs in the Philippines. Patrick also stresses the overwhelming size of the underworld dedicated to one drug - ‘ya baa’, a potent, cheap, mass-produced form of methamphetamine. Greg and Ed tease the details out of Patrick on how this criminal network affects Thailand and what the causes may be for the apparent increase in corrupt activities throughout Southeast Asia. As always, the podcas

Google searches have become a treasure trove of information on modern cultures, and something that everyone from students to seniors use to find information. One interesting feature is Google’s autocomplete, which makes guesses on what you’re looking for based on what others are searching for. So what does Google’s autocomplete say about Thailand? Greg tries various combinations of Thailand-related questions, such as ‘Is Thailand...’ or ‘Will Bangkok . . .’ with results ranging from the mundane to the curiously fascinating - one even reminding Greg of this awesome short film called True Skin that takes place in Bangkok's near-future. Searchers seemed concerned about everything from safety in Thailand and whether Bangkok is sinking, to the cave boys story and the prevalence of the zika virus in the Land of Smiles. The results seem to mirror Thailand’s reputation as a country of great contrast, complexity, and to some extent, weirdness. Also, to the person searching for “is Thailand hotel?” Bravo. Bravo. As alw

What if you got into a time machine and jumped forward a few hundred years, only to discover when you arrived that no one spoke your language anymore? It’s happened plenty of times (not the time machine thing, but languages dying out), so we wondered...could it happen to Thai? Greg interviews friend of the show Rikker Dockum, a linguist finishing his PhD at Yale, who has been doing research in northwest Burma on a local dialect that is part of the same family of languages as Thai. After discussing this unusual dialect, Greg and Rikker chat about the modern Thai language and how it has slowly splintered and changed over time, including a few interesting tidbits into why Thais call Google ‘Uncle Goo’ and why the Thai translation of the Forrest Gump novel used a very specific spelling of a particular word. To wrap it up, Rikker gives us his thoughts on ‘language death’ and what role the forces of globalization and modern technology play. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just li

Just for a bit of fun, we're releasing this week's bonus episode for all our listeners! Patrons of the Bangkok Podcast get the regular show + a bonus show every week. To learn more, go to https://www.patreon.com/bangkokpodcast Greg and Ed - still trying to digest the news from last week’s show with attorney Jerrold Kippen - discuss the significance of the (hopeful) changes to Thailand’s work permit laws. Just for a bit of fun, Greg also goes through the professions prohibited to foreigners, realizing that most seem to center around protected Thai cultural arts and crafts - although there are a few surprises in the list (gem polishers! Architects!). And to wrap the show up, the boys address the news that the National Legislative Assembly is considering legalizing medical marijuana (!), which (if it comes to pass) would make Thailand the first country in Asia to do so (!!).  

Another in our continuing series on Bangkok’s coolest and most notable places to live or visit! This week we focus on the Ari neighborhood, which roughly surrounds the Ari BTS station. Greg recounts the four years he lived in the neighborhood and shares a few insights into what makes it unique. Ed also ponders is demographic makeup - a lot of educated expats living and hanging out right next to working class Thais, patrons of upscale eateries, craft beer bars, and hole-in-the-wall joints that cater to all. While condo prices are high due to the central location, the bars, restaurants, and art galleries more than justify an exploratory afternoon or evening. With a ton of back sois, a great street food scene, and hipster sensibilities (though not too much of that, yet), Ari should be on the list of any expat seeking to explore Bangkok beyond the tourist areas. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we’ll keep our Facebook, Twitter

If you’ve even a passing interest in living in Thailand, you’ve likely heard of the recent changes to the Kingdom’s work permit laws - the legal requirements of being employed here there are written in stone which, it turns out, are not written in stone. Greg interviews Jerrold Kippen of the law firm of Duensing Kippen about these changes, which were highlighted in a recent article his firm wrote. It’s big news! Traditionally, Thai work permits for foreigners were interpreted very narrowly, meaning individuals were legally allowed to only work the exact job, in the exact capacity, and at the exact address specified in their work permit. Jerrold discusses a recent change that has sent shockwaves through Thailand’s expat community: it appears that changes to the labor laws mean that once an expat has a valid work permit, he or she will also be able to work any other type of job at any location, as long as that work is not specifically prohibited under Thai law. Greg and Jerrold discuss the significance of the

This week your intrepid hosts discuss all manner of rail travel in Bangkok and beyond, and the role that the train system plays in Thai society. For most foreigners rail is a convenient alternative, but for many Thais (and others throughout the world), it’s the only option, leading to some interesting financial, logistical, and economic repercussions. Greg and Ed also trade stories of riding the overnight train to Chiang Mai and other rail adventures they’ve had over the years, and then discuss the meat of the issue - the massive new train station in Bang Sue, as well as several high speed train lines emanating from Bangkok to both the north and south. What’s clear is that once the Bang Sue terminal is completed, rail travel in Thailand will look a hell of a lot different than it does now. For more info, check out Greg’s super-cool Bangkok rail projection map here, and also head to Nomadic Notes for a wider look at all of Asia’s proposed rail routes. But no matter what happens, the boys conclude that as lon

What do you do if the culture you grew up in isn’t your own - or even your parents’? You adapt, dammit, and become what’s known as a Third Culture Kid, or TCK, if you’re cool. Ed interviews his recently graduated student Mook Ishimura, a half-Thai, half-Japanese ‘third culture kid,’ who is a Thai citizen but who grew up mostly in the United States and Indonesia before moving to Thailand for university. They discuss the rather unusual situation of feeling LESS comfortable in your ‘passport country’ than in another culture - in Mook’s case, American culture. Mook recounts the difficulty of studying in a western classroom her whole life, only to begin university in an international program in Thailand, mostly with Thai students coming out of the Thai school system. In an increasingly cosmopolitan city like Bangkok, Mook demonstrates that not everyone fits neatly into the ‘native’ box or the ‘expat’ box. We think this is a great asset to any city or country - after all, variety is the spice of life, and TCKs are

On this episode, Master Yoda Biker Greg counsels young padawan Ed in the ways of biking in Bangkok, focusing either on the casual rider looking for some exercise or adventure, the commuter looking for a way through Bangkok’s notoriously bad traffic (and unreliable BTS!), or the adventurer looking to blaze new trails (for an example of this, see this week’s episode artwork of Greg’s good friend Paul exploring a new trail). Greg and Ed discuss all the important points of biking in Bangkok - safety, directions, equipment, and more, plus a discussion on how (most) Thai drivers are actually very aware of their surroundings, providing a surprisingly stress-free ride, if you happen to be riding in traffic (there’s a million disclaimers on this, but that’s Greg’s take, anyway). Greg also runs through some of the obstacles thrown up by the Bangkok government - such as no bikes allowed on the skytrain, or bike paths that are build and then abandoned - that can make it difficult to bike in the city. However, in the end,

Have you ever seen those little kids walking around a temple dressed as monks? Well guess what - they ARE monks! Sort of. Mostly. Well, probably more than you are, anyway. Definitely more than we are. On this episode, Greg talks to perennial BP favorite Phra Pandit - a real, actual monk - about Thai novices, which is what not-yet-monks are called in Thailand. Pandit explains the origin of the 'novice’ concept and how children in Thailand are often placed in temples due to family or behavioral issues. Phra Pandit notes that the system is not perfect - the young boys are expected to follow the Buddhist precepts and cannot play football or computer games or have relationships with girls - but that the system somehow 'works’ in that the lives of countless young boys seem to be improved over time and many adults look back fondly on their time as novices. So what happens when the boys grow up and maybe decide they don’t want to be monks anymore? A lot of things, actually, and Phra Pandit explains some of the many r

As all expats know, Bangkok is a gigantic, sprawling metropolis, but it does contain dozens of identifiable neighborhoods, each with its own personality, vibe, and reasons to go (or not to go) for a visit. On this show, the guys dive into the Ekkamai area, the long, skinny section that stretches from Sukhumvit to Petchaburi along Sukhumivit Soi 63. Not only does this include Soi Ekkamai proper, but also the many side sois that snake and wind and tumble west, toward Thong Lor, and east, toward Sukhumvit 71, which hide great apartments, cool coffee shops, and other little surprises. Greg and Ed go over some of their favorite places to eat, drink, and shop, while also discussing how Ekkamai fits into the big puzzle of Bangkok. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we’ll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

In a culture where most people have seen ghosts, visit fortune tellers, and where questioning authority is kind of, sort of, not really cool, critical thinking may seem like a foreign concept. However, we happen to have an expert on hand - our own Ed “The Truth” Knuth, who teaches a critical thinking class as part of his university course. On the surface, it may seem that Thais are worse at thinking critically than westerners, but Ed explains that (at least in his opinion), it really depends on what people think about. If Thais are good at math and engineering, that means they have the faculties to think critically. Greg points out that the issue is fraught with cultural obstacles, such as the need to constantly respect authority. This is undoubtedly true, but Ed tells a few stories about how enthusiastically his students jump into his course, starting with a discussion about bigfoot and ending with a critical analyses of the fortunes that each student got done at the beginning of the semester. So the seed is

Something a little different this week - a host swap! Greg is joined by co-host Scott Coates, one of his oldest friends in Thailand. Scott co-hosts the Talk Travel Asia podcast with Trevor Ranges, and, if you head over there, you will be able to hear The Bangkok Podcast’s other host, Ed “The Truth” Knuth, co-hosting a show with Trevor. Everything will be back to normal next week, but we thought a bit of crossover action would be fun. (And in case you’re wondering, the artwork for this week’s episode is Greg and Scott during a mountain bike ride in Cambodia in 2010). For this show, Greg and Scott thought that they’d chat a bit about how, as long-term expats, Bangkok has changed them personally. From living as a minority, to learning to calm down and “out-Thai the Thais”, to getting a close-up look at social stratification and widespread poverty, no one can spend any significant amount of time here without changing at least a lil’ bit on the inside. Greg’s last point is that living in Thailand has taught him ab

From a cute lil’ gazebo on the rooftop of a newly-renovated hotel in Chinatown, Greg, Ed, and Stuart from Travelfish.org jump into the complex issue of “overtourism” in Thailand. Beginning with a definition of the term (roughly when the number of tourists exceeds the capacity of the existing infrastructure to properly service them), Stuart describes the situation in a number of popular tourist destinations in Thailand. It’s a tricky subject - if one destination starts to get a bit too touristy, does this then mean that tourists (and expats in Thailand) should re-route their trips to lesser known destinations? Stuart thinks it’s a good idea, pointing out that in recent decades, tourist destinations in Thailand have actually gotten less diverse, as more regional options open up and compete for the almighty tourist dollar. The guys then discuss other possible solutions to the problem, but all three express doubts about the Thai government’s willingness to sacrifice short term tourist numbers for long term preser

We start off with some good news! Throwing back to episode 2.18 and guest Sawang Srisom, a disabled rights activist, Greg is happy to report that the city just gave a huge chunk of change to to the BTS so that they can finally add elevators to all stations! Really, it’s about time - Bangkok’s disabled facilities are embarrassingly unsuitable. Greg and Ed then get into the meat of the show - live music in Bangkok. After lamenting the scene compared to the U.S. and Canada, they chat about some of their favorite spots in Bangkok and give some recommendations. Greg pushes perennial podcast go-tos AdHere on Samsen as well as Brown Sugar on Phra Sumen, although he doesn’t have a very big list of favorites beyond that (having a kid will do that to you). Ed discusses the various ‘scenes’ in Bangkok from Thai pop, to indie, to jazz bars at high-end hotels. And - as an actual musician without child - Ed gives a much more comprehensive list of favorites than Greg: Soul Bar in Chinatown, Apoteka on Soi 11, and Nothing Bu